Remove the 4 bolts remaining on the stern side of the raw water pump. Once you have the raw water bracket removed from the raw water pump, remove the raw water bracket from the motor and set it aside. The pic below shows a shot from the side of the raw water pump housing and the raw water pump bracket to illustrate where this bolt is located. Once you have removed these 2 bolts, remove the single bolt you can see right behind the pulley which is at the part of the raw water pump bracket that is closest to the bow. Use the box end of the wrench if you have it. The one in the middle on the port side is difficult to reach and requires lots of tiny turns with that open end wrench. If I recall correctly, they are all 10mm bolts. You have to put your hand back there and feel them. You cannot see these bolts looking at them from the bow side. As you look from bow to stern at the pump, the 2 bolts to remove are the one on top on the starboard side and the one in the middle on the port side. Remove only the 2 bolts attaching the raw water pump to the bracket. What you can't see in this pic is that the other 3 are on the port side of the raw water pump, right behind the raw water pump bracket in pretty much the same place symmetrically. As you can see from this pic, there are 3 bolt holes on the starboard side. There are 6 bolts total which hold the raw water pump to the raw water pump bracket and all of them are removed from the stern side. I put the nut back on the stud just so I wouldn't lose it until I was ready for complete removal. As noted in the pic, reinstall the bolt to keep everything in place for the time being. (Apologies for misspelling bracket as "bracked" ). This is the area where the "2" is in the pic above. Remove the hose clamp from the vertical hose leading into the Y-connection of hoses.Ĭlose up of the raw water pump upon removal of the idler pulley bracket and after pushing the vertical hose leading into the Y-connection of hoses to the starboard side so that it is out of the way for this procedure. My apologies for not taking a close up after belt removal.Ĥ. With the belt still being installed in this pic, you cannot see the nut/bolt combo but it is right below the alternator pulley and the hole for the nut/bolt combo is actually part of the alternator. Remove the nut and bolt combo which attaches the starboard end of the idler pulley bracket to the alternator. The nut requires a deep well socket because of the length of the stud on the engine.ģ. The bolt will come out with a socket and long extension. Remove the bolt and remove the nut from the stud holding on the port side of the idler pulley bracket. (I learned on re-assembly that my belt was very tight to put back onto the pulleys even with the tensioner at the least tense location.)Ģ. The serpentine belt will probably NOT fall off and will probably still be pretty tight on the pulleys so CAREFULLY remove the belt. If you don't have this diagram, or if yours is different, you might want to snap a picture or draw it out. Note that there is a diagram for belt routing in this picture. Loosen the belt tensioner using an open end wrench. Just drain the water from the engine and then proceed as follows:ġ. There is no need to disconnect ANYTHING other than what these instructions lay out. They are the steps in which you should proceed)ĭO NOT jack with trying to disconnect hoses on the stern side of the raw water pump, fuel filter, or anything else. (Note the red numerals in the white boxes in this photo. So today we all learn together! I'm posting this based on my application of a 2007 Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI with a Bravo 3 with the air-actuated drain system but if you have a newer Merc with a Bravo 3 the setup is probably pretty similar.Īll you will need for this project is a slot head screwdriver, a set of open end wrenches (SAE & metric), a set of sockets (SAE & metric), a set of SAE deepwell sockets (or at least a 9/16" deepwell), a short and long extension for your socket set, a pair of pliers/channel locks, and a tube of water-soluble lubricant (dish soap, KY, whatever you use around the house ) Yesterday I installed my new raw water pump housing in preparation for boating season. The procedure is pretty much the same thing as what you would have to do in order to do an impeller change. However, the silver lining is that I had to take apart the raw water pump to replace the raw water pump housing. Unfortunately, this little incident ended my boating season WAY too early last year. The damage done to the raw water pump housing required a replacement of the entire housing. Last 4th of July weekend, my raw water pump went bad on me while underway.
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